Thursday, January 10, 2008

Georgia on my Mind

Last winter I was part of an ENEMO-OSCE presidential election observation mission to the Republic of Georgia. Here I am below with our tanslator Guliko. Ironically, we were sent to a mostly Azeri area in southern Georgia where few of the locals actually knew Georgian. My Russian was better Guliko's so a few times I ended up translating for myself.

This was the polling station from hell. How many people can you pack into a precinct hallway? Apparently, a lot!

Getting out was madness. I'm amazed people were not killed.

It snowed heavily on election day, adding to the chaos. The roads were covered in a foot of snow and we had to limit our observations to populated areas outside Tiblisi.
This is Maria, my colleague from Romania. She is funny as hell. We enjoyed a huge Georgian lunch in a restaurant with little in the way of heating. Her incredible sense of humor kept me laughing the whole time. Georgian food is fantastic by the way. Khinkali would go over big time in the USA. They are a sort of massive sized meat filled dumplings. Khachapuri is the national bread with cheese melted on top. Toasting and wine are very important in Georgian culture. There is also an ancient Georgian tradition called a supra led by a tamada who tells stories and entertains while guests eat and drink. It's more complicated than that, but that's what Google is for if you are interested.
Infrustructure is rather primative, at least far more than I imagined it would be. The schools mostly had small wood or coal burning stoves. This picture brings back memories of when I lived in the USSR in 1991. In Sochi at that time they had the same kind of toilets. Not pretty stuff.


In Sochi in 1991, I came down with a horrible case of food poisoning. All we had were toilets like these, and this was a nice one by comparision. Ah memories...
A picture of election officials gathered around the stoves I mentioned earlier. Most of the population of this precinct was Azeri.

At 3:00 am we were still counting ballots. Fraud? Incompetence? Who knows, but the roads were getting totally snowed under so we had to assume the best. At 5:00 am we arrived back home in Tiblisi, after our car broke down. A long day...

Austria - Vienna Calling

Irina enjoys the world famous Sachertorte at one of the equally world famous Aida cafes in Vienna. New Year's decorations were set up for 2008 festivities.
A light snowfall on New Year's Day in Vienna has us take the tram around the ring to avoid the cold. The tram cost us a Euro, the same bus tour cost 25 Euros each. The tram had equally nice windows. I'd say skip the bus tour.
Stephansdom church, Vienna.
Ina bought a walking cane that she will use, let me guess, "zero times" ever.


Views from around the Vienna Ring including the Rathaus.


A Russian World War II memorial. Unlike the rest of Eastern Europe, the Soviets occupied but later departed from Vienna. The city remained a spys nest all throughout the first decades of the cold war.


Austria - Vienna - Schloss Belvedere

The smartest thing I did the entire trip was visit Schloss Belvedere. Irina met her counsins from the night before who were also partying in Vienna on a Romanian group tour. They all decided to spend the day at Europe's largest outlet mall somewhere on the outskirsts of the city.

I imagined a day of full terror with thousands of shoppers pushing and shoving for crap they probably didn't need so I slipped out the back door to explore this stunning palatial complex. Belvedere is a baroque palace complex built by Prince Eugene of Savoy. One of the great generals of European history, Eugene set out from France and ended up serving Habsburgs in their endless wars with the Ottomans for control of the Balkans. At his death, Eugene was one of the wealthiest men in Europe as his masterpiece palace demonstrates.

The art gallery in the lower section of the palace was fantastic. The art gallery in the upper section was even more stunning.
In a tribute to his military skill he was named by Napoleon as one of the seven generals whose campaigns were worthy of study. This is the classic painting of Napolean crossing the Alps.
Outside in the gardens it snowed. Heavily...

Austria - Vienna - A Night at the Opera

On New Year's Eve we went to the Staatsoper to see Die Fledermaus, otherwise known as "The Bat." The Bat is a comic operetta composed by Johann Strauss II. In "The Bat", the libretto is sung and spoken in German, and even with 5 years of German under my belt, I didn't get much of it. Every now and then one of the characters, Prince Orlovsky, would break out into Russian at which point I could understand what was going on.

In the operetta, Prince Orlovsky plays the part of an exceedingly wealthy 19th Century member of the Russian elite, living in the West, who'd made a fortune off the country's vast natural resources. There are of course no parallels whatsoever from that experience in modern Russian today.

Ramdom pictures from around the opera house.
The vaulted ceiling of the state opera house.
Irina looking serious.


Germany - Among Old Friends